The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from construction by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on