Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
